One Car, Three Tunes

August 9th, 2013

One Car, Three Tunes

You guys already know how much time it can take to set up a car. Adding the equipment, sorting out the suspension settings, the tranny settings; all of that takes time. Here’s how you can tune a car three different ways and change from one setting to the next almost instantly.

The routine starts when you get a new car, either new to you or totally brand new. The first thing to do is change the oil or, if the car has more than 300 miles on it, rebuild the engine and the chassis. Once you do this, the car is back to the way it left the factory and has the same or more horsepower than it did when you got it, even if it’s a brand new car.

Next, before you do anything else, go back to your garage and go into the tuning settings page. You’ll see three default settings, all the same. Go to the right, the C setting, and then scroll to the far left and choose ‘Edit Comment’. Delete the words that are there and then type in ‘Original’ or ‘Default’, whatever you want but make sure you signify that this is the settings as they are now.

Once you’ve done that, go back and select setting A or B, it doesn’t matter. Head over to the tuning garage and add whatever equipment you feel is necessary. Then go back and tune that equipment as you see fit.

Let’s say you’re tuning for 500 PP. Do that, set it all up and test the car. Once it’s just the way you want it, head back to the garage, select the Settings page and choose either A or B, whichever one you chose first. Rename that to ‘500 PP’ or whatever it happens to be.

At this point, you’ve got two settings. The default and the 500 PP setting, right? If you look at the default, Setting C, you’ll only see some of the additional equipment you added. Why? Because some tuning bits are permanent and some aren’t. Things like weight reduction, engine steps, chassis reinforcement, etc. are permanent. Every setting for this car will have them.

Other equipment, things like turbos, superchargers, intake and exhaust bits and pieces, are not permanent and can be selected or deselected as many times as you want. Your 500 PP setting uses some, the default setting only uses the permanent pieces.

OK, so two are set. Let’s say you want to up the PP to 650. At this point, Setting B and C will be the same. What you want to do now is switch to Setting B and modify it. Tune it to 650 PP then go into Setting B and change its Comment to ‘650 PP’.

Now, when you’re online and need a 650 or 500 PP car, you can switch settings in an instant without adding this or deleting that. You’ve still got the factory settings to play with should you wish to use them. Keep track of which setting you change and make sure you change the comment if you up or lower the PP.

You’ll find this useful with NASCAR. Say you race Indy and Daytona in the same set of races. You don’t have to change cars, just change the settings you use. Label one Daytona and the other Indy.

We all have favourite cars. With this technique it’s easy to set it up for a city track and for a high speed track, then switch back and forth very quickly. Good luck!

By Waddy2001

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Time Trials

May 20th, 2013

Time Trials

The bi-monthly Seasonal Time Trials are a pain sometimes, right? You can spend a lot of time trying to beat the gold or someone else’s time for a chance to see your name in lights. This week, PD has come up with a pretty cool event that is a pain but it’s a fun pain. Prize is credits plus a car, if you get gold that is. I know there are many experts in this forum but here’s a tip for the noobs, if there are any.

Getting a good time in a Time Trial means not going off the track or hitting the barriers. Once you set all four wheels off the beaten path, your white time changes to red and your current lap, no matter how good it is, is wasted. If you hit a wall hard enough, your next lap is invalidated so you have to start all over again.

Here’s the tip: For the first lap, stick to the track and don’t worry about your time. Get a lap under your belt to see what your worst time will be. As soon as you finish a complete lap with a time in white, save the ghost. If you keep racing without backing out, your ghost will stay anyway but if you want to do something else, make sure you save your ghost.

OK, next time you try the Time Trial, load your ghost and try to beat it. Get rid of the real ghost, the pain in the butt car that is you, by hitting the left up button on a Logitech wheel. I’m not sure what the key is for a controller. Once you get rid of the car ghost, you can check the map to see if you are faster or slower. Of course your time will tell you that too but the yellow car up on the map is a good indication of how much difference there is between you and your ghost.

If you get a better time, and you should, save that ghost over the one you just used. Keep doing this until you hit your best time. I just used this technique myself, trying to win the car in the seasonal. I have silver now and need 13 seconds on the ‘Ring to get the car. Over 13 miles, I should be able to do it. At least I will know where I am slow, as compared to my last run, by watching my own ghost.

You may know that you can also load the ghost(s) of the top ten racers in the event. For me, this isn’t too helpful since I’m about a minute slower in this event so far than the 10th place person. In other words, he loses me after a few minutes. I’d rather have the ghost of someone who just nicked the gold time but PD doesn’t let me do that.

Even the fastest guy, however, can be helpful. Save his ghost and follow him as far and as fast as you can until he disappears. (I say he because I haven’t found any girls/women who play GT5. Are there any?) Using that top or 10th top ghost can give you lots of tips on the first few corners. On a track like Nurburgring, he disappears quickly but on some of the smaller tracks, he is with sight for almost the whole way. Use those techniques to better your time.

That’s it! I’m off to race online with the GT5 Cheats crew. Wish me luck!
By Waddy2001


Take The Bump And Grind Out Of A Race

May 3rd, 2013

Take The Bump And Grind Out Of A Race

We’ve been trying to work out an event that would take the bump and grind out of a race and leave pure driving skill/tuning untouched. In an online race, that’s pretty tough because, except for karts, it’s hard to find a car that we haven’t fiddled with. Here’s my suggestion. It’s open for discussion, obviously, but I think it would serve as a platform that could be updated or joined by new members, even if it’s been running for months.

How much do you use the practice section of GT5? Although my racing skills don’t show it, I use it all the time. Once you’ve got top level and all the cars, what’s left to do? Well, I like to practice so I don’t suck quite so bad in the online races.

If you don’t use the practice part, here’s the scoop on it. You choose your car, choose a track, set up the driving options and tuning, decide if you want a single car time trial, a drift trial or a one-make race and then  start. There is a running start, same as the bi-weekly seasonal TTs. Once you pass the start finish line, the clock starts and resets after each lap. There is a ghost of your first clean lap and the object is to race around until you get your best time.

Here’s the kicker. If you leave the race to adjust your settings, you start all over again. Your last best lap is now recorded and moves down or stays the same depending on your next lap time. Keep this part in mind. You can’t back out and come in again with the same car or your times start from scratch.

As with the seasonal TTs, hitting a wall or taking a shortcut changes the clock to red and your time isn’t counted. Hit the wall hard enough and your whole next lap is invalidated. Only clean laps count. Keep this in mind too.

Let’s say you have a list of ten cars. Why ten? Because there are only 10 time slots in any of the practice menus. If you were to tune each of those cars to one particular track, race them one by one, you’d have ten best-lap times after you’d raced them all. If you were to take a photo of that screen, once you’re through, and compare it to mine or someone else’s, you’d have a pretty good idea of who could pis…sorry, of who was the better driver at that time on that track in that list of cars.

You could compare each car or total time, it wouldn’t really matter. Total time would be interesting, kind of like the CPU test results that give a computer a such and such rating (FPS for video cards). It would be easy to see which cars that driver handled best, as well.

I’ve been considering this for a few days and this is what I’ve considered.

1. Personally, I like the Tokyo track. First, I like it to test top speed tunes on instead of Sarthe because the long straight is right there after the first turn. Second, it has no shortcuts so I can’t cheat myself by cutting a corner. Third, it has the sweetest long turn in GT5. Fourth, it has the bob-sled section at the end where you could easily smack the right side then the left and turn the clock red. Fifth, it has a small high-speed chicane and finally, it has two very tight corners, a hairpin at the start and a sharp right hander after the long straight. OK, there is a seventh, on the straight there is a jog halfway down that if you don’t take at the right speed means you smack the wall on the left.

2. My car choices would include:

1. a kart FGT or an F10

3. a Miura

4. a 2J 5. the FT565 Twin Turbo Audi (because I’m Canadian and this car is very fast)

6. a Cotterham Fireblade

7. a GTR but I don’t race them but I know everyone likes them

8. a Shelby (the ’66 not the new one)

9. one of the touring cars, up for grabs

10. maybe the Red Bull (my time in it was 1:06 to give you an indication of how bad I am).

3. The process would be to take each car, tune the crap out of it, get your times down as low as possible, then start the event. Clear the results then run laps with each car in the list until you get your ten best times. The best times would have to be clean laps which eliminates banging the wall and shortcuts (which don’t apply to Tokyo anyway) and, should you back out to tune, you’d have to start all over again. We’d need a time for each car to be able to enter the event.

4. People will mention SRF and the other aids but we’ve got to start somewhere. If you race best with SRF, use it. If you are a purist, don’t. Times are all that matter and there won’t be an asterisk beside any time, no matter what aids were used. No tuning cheats, of course.

5. As time goes by, we would post the lowest total times at the top of the thread. All you’d need is a digital photo of your screen to prove your skill.

I probably missed something here but you folks will be able to pick this apart before the PIC (people in charge) decide. Oh yeah, Tokyo is a very short, fast track. You won’t get old racing ten cars around it. All of the cars I mentioned will do it in about two minutes or less. Even the kart is very close to that time.


Online Racing Events

April 29th, 2013

In our twice-weekly online racing events, we’ve been testing out different scenarios in an attempt to level the playing field. I guess this is a plain old pissing contest to see who is fastest, no more than that. It presents an interesting dilemma, though. Virtually every car/truck/tank/POS can be tuned in many different ways.

On Saturday, we decided to use the Scion as a test platform and it worked fairly well. We used Deep Forest (I think) for the track and managed times around 1:27 to 1:30. All in all there were no major discrepancies in the times and we were all adjusting the final drive/top speed ratios as the only tune. This is, of course, based on trust but if you ever race with us, I think you’ll see that this isn’t a problem.

We’ve used NASCAR rides for pure fun with lots of crashing and smashing on Daytona but we take our cars to a road track now and then. I have to say that Nurburgring is a favourite for most of us. There is a fair bit of tuning available on these beasts but, again, we try to stick of un-modified cars for the most part. NASCAR is a lot of fun, believe me. Don’t ignore these vehicles or races because they’re American or because the cars looks pretty ugly.

They’re tough to drive well and, if you know the technology behind them, they’re pretty much on the cutting edge of racing technology. Sure, they’re all pushrod engines but everything else is as modern as you can get. The drivers themselves are top athletes, too. Some of these drivers race a few hundred miles on a Saturday then turn around and do the same thing on Sunday. Conditions in the cars during the summer are oppressive, to say the least. Don’t assume that they ‘just turn left’ all the time.

Somehow we always move to some go-kart racing. In GT5, go-karts are the ultimate ‘no tune’ test subject. Adjust the top speed and you’re off! We usually end up on the Eiger tracks, regular or reverse, and you’d think it was the Indy 500 from the sounds of the drivers hooting and hollering as they vie for first. The races are short, extremely intense and always a laugh.

Finally, and this is the main point of this post, we have used the Cotterham Fireblade every now and then. If you don’t have a Fireblade, pick one up and see what you think. Read the description and tune it however you want. I’ve taken one of mine up to around 250 hp, added everything that can be added and, guess what, it is a real terror to drive. Next to the karts, the Fireblade is the lightest drive in your garage. Adding a ton of power to that chassis is just asking for trouble.

The reason I tricked out one of my Fireblades was simply to see how I could tune it to get it to handle better. Top speed is around 150 or so but getting there on Sarthe was a trial until I did one simple thing. Every corner, every step on the gas made the car feel like it was on glare ice.

What did I do to make it handle better? If you’re online for the Wednesday or Saturday session, I’ll let you know what adjustment I made. Pump up the HP and fiddle with a few things, one in particular. (Clue: it had nothing to do with camber, caster, suspension or LSD). See you Wednesday! (Times and room numbers are posted in the forum and on the Facebook page.)

By Waddy2001


Waiting for GT6 – How to Fill Your Time

April 17th, 2013

Waiting for GT6 – How to Fill Your Time

There was a buzz this week about Newegg offering up advanced sales of GT6. As it turns out, this was either an error on their part or simply a fishing expedition by Sony and PD to gauge reaction to GT6 on the PS3 platform. Regardless, it was fun while it lasted! We’re still stuck with GT5 on the PS3 for now but, honestly, is that such a bad thing?

Not everyone is level 40 and some of us don’t have 1200 or more cars but many of us have completed well over 90% of the game. What’s left?  Everyone knows that GT5 is pretty much endless in its scope. Not only do we have the weekly Seasonal events but we’ve got hours and hours of depth in the game itself. If you’ve got those 1200 cars and wads of credits and are sitting at Level 40 across the board,  here are some things to try.

This week I went in search of some trophies that I didn’t have, the ones you get on the Photo Tour. That took a while but the best part of Googling how to get them was discovering the powerful photo app that is right there inside GT5. If you haven’t tried the Photo Tour, check it out. It’s the only way you get to ‘walk’ a track, for instance. The app has full camera control too. Over expose, under expose, all the settings are there. Do some searching and you’ll find a site that tells you how to take ultra-realistic shots of your favorite cars. Some of the shots shown there are truly beautiful.

Walking the track is plain fun in itself, even if you don’t photograph anything. Since you’re usually whizzing by at top speed, this gives you a chance to stop and smell the roses. Everyone knows the detail in GT5 is incredible.  Window shopping in front of the Aston-Martin store on Tokyo’s main drag brings that detail smack in your face. I’m thinking of taking a stroll around Nurburgring when I have some time to spare. Just kidding. There are some spots that would be fun though.

Next up is taking a kart on a tour of your favorite tracks. I mentioned last time that the GT5Cheats crew raced karts during one of our online sessions. In an attempt to get the highest top speed possible, I tuned my 125S kart at Sarthe. That long straight is about the best place to test top speed, although the Tokyo main drag is quicker to get to. Anyway, once I figured that 107 mph is the best I could get, I took a tour of the rest of the track, trying to move the barriers at the end of the first long straight (I couldn’t but I did discover that you can weave your way through them!).

Then I discovered the various ambulances and trucks on the route, read the road signs and checked out some of the fans. I really wish that GT5 was as open as, say, Far Cry where it’s possible to wander anywhere you want. Wouldn’t  it be cool to stroll around that 747 on the Top Gear Test Track? Take a kart on a tour and have some fun. They’re fast plus they give you a different perspective on everything. They’re good for training, too.

Basically, if you’ve got your hands on GT5, you’ve got a virtually endless supply of fun, not all of it involves racing. Is there another game that you can pick up for fifty bucks that brings so many elements together in one package AND dishes out new challenges every week? I can’t think of one. I just remembered the course design part of GT5. It never ends!

Finally, here’s a challenge for you. Take the 125S kart and see what you can manage for top speed. I can get 107 easily but I feel there is more available. Tell us what course, what settings, etc. What’s in it for you? Karma, damn it! Don’t underestimate doing something for nothing. Your 15 minutes of fame await.

By Waddy2001


Of Redlines and Trannys

April 8th, 2013

Of Redlines and Trannys

We had a lot of fun in the last GT5Cheats online get-together. If you get a chance to join the crew there, you’ll have a hoot and maybe learn a few things here and there.

As we raced, and I use that term loosely, around in 2CVs and then go-karts, it occurred to me that a bit of info on transmission settings might be in order. First some explanation and then some principles.

I grew up in the era of muscle cars. Mustangs, Super Bees, Camaros were all the rage. The Beach Boys sang about 409s and Little Deuce Coupes. Friends of mine, two crazy brothers, had a Dodge Monaco with a 383 V8 that they’d set up for street drag racing.

It had lots of horsepower but a very high numerical rear end in it, something like 4.11. It did the quarter mile, carefully measured out between paint lines on the Long Swamp Road, in under 12 seconds but its top speed was only around 80 mph at best. Let’s say it was OK for city driving but useless for highway cruising.

How could they have changed the top speed? A simple rear end gear swap would have raised the top speed and lengthened the quarter mile time. What does this have to do with GT5? If you think of the high numerical rear end example above, you’ll see how ‘final drive ratio’ affects your speed.

Every track on GT5 requires different transmission settings in order to give the best performance for your car. How do you figure out what the right setting is? I use the tachometer (tach) to do the tuning for me. At the end of the longest straight, or just before the end, you’ll want to see the tach needle bounce once or twice into the red zone.

Everyone pretty much knows the ‘tranny trick’ right? Set everything to default, move final drive ratio all the way to the right then move the bottom top speed slider all the way to the left. Stop there, head over to the practice area and pick the course you want to experiment on. See if you have RPMs available at the end of the longest straight. If you do, move the final drive ratio slider to the left to increase the top speed. Take the car out again and see how it performs. Bouncing the needle at the end of the longest straight means everything is set up correctly, at least as far as the transmission is concerned.

There are exceptions to all of this, of course. Top speed isn’t everything, just as acceleration isn’t everything. What you’re shooting for is a happy medium, one that will see you first at the end of the race.

Two tracks come to mind, OK three. The Daytona oval, the kart track at Eifel and, finally, Sarthe. Here’s how I set up for these three tracks:

1. The Daytona oval requires horsepower, lots of it, to get up to the highest top speed. Daytona is different from any other track because you don’t accelerate much, if at all. The variables on it are your tires, other drivers and how you position yourself in the pack. If these things work for you, you’ll have a better chance of winning. Hitting the wall or another car or spinning out means you’ll have to start all over again because you’ll never catch the leaders.  Tuning for Daytona involves trading acceleration for top speed, but you’d better hope that nothing gets in your way to slow you down.

2. For the Eifel kart track, or any other kart track for that matter, acceleration is king. As a matter of fact, you’ll probably want the tach needle to bounce a bit more than on any other type of circuit. The single straight is very short and the corners come fast and furious from start to finish. Adjust your final drive ratio accordingly.

3. Sarthe is an anomaly, isn’t it? Far fewer corners than the ‘Ring but a straight that seems to go on and on. You’ll want to tune for top speed to stay competitive here. Sarthe is a long course with sweeping corners and one low speed chicane and only one 90 degree turn but four, long high-speed straights. Tune for the straights, bounce the needle at the end and you’ll probably place first.

The biggest tip I can give is to tune for the straights and get to know each track. As soon as you head into a race, the longest straight number is right in front of you. Why is it there? To give you a chance to tune for that track, that’s why.

If you’re super keen on keeping your win percentage up, make good use of the practice area. You can adjust settings and check times there without affecting your win percentage. Ultimately, nothing else matters but lap speed, right? Top speed, 0-60, late braking, early braking, all of this is irrelevant if your time is 1/100th of a second less than the winner. I’ll discuss some other variables and track tunings in a future article.

By Waddy2001


Legal-ish Side Swiping for Faster Laps

April 5th, 2013

Legal-ish Side Swiping for Faster Laps

There are already some threads on concerning faster lap times but I haven’t seen this technique described, so far anyway.  This trick should give you the edge in close races, especially when rabbits are involved. (Rabbits, in case you don’t know, are the two or three ridiculously fast AI cars in certain seasonal events.) Some of you will undoubtedly groan and say, “Nothing new here” but you might not go as far as timing things the way I do.

I’ll use the reverse London course for the description. Just about every corner on that course allows you to swipe the car just ahead of you to get a cornering advantage. Take the first left-hander, for example. You’re not moving too fast yet and you’re braking and steering hard left at the same time. Don’t worry too much about braking, concentrate on getting to the inside of the car ahead of you.

If your gears are set up correctly, you should be able to get pretty close to the number 11 car right at that corner. Brake late, cut inside and use his car as leverage around the corner. If you do it right, you just have to keep your foot down while he slides into the barrier and you’re past. His car is moving unlike the concrete barriers so you slip past easily. If you took the corner at the same speed but without the other car there, you’d be scraping the concrete instead.

This works for the slow corners but it works even better later on, through the three higher-speed esses, inside left on the first two and then outside right on the last one. If you time it correctly, even to the point of laying off the gas for a fraction of a second to get your position, you can take these corners much faster by using the other car as a wedge or lever.

The final corner on the reverse London course is perfect for what is often the final push to the finish line. In the Miata seasonal of a few months ago, swiping the leader on that corner was the only way I could have won. First, I took him out of contention and, second, I didn’t have to slow down nearly as much once I was beside him. (Since the ‘update’, I haven’t been able to even come close in that particular seasonal, swiping or not.)

The city courses and the short kart tracks seem specifically designed for this but every track has sections where it works perfectly.  Even on the ‘Ring, the Carousel is set up for some nice bumping/swiping, even the right-hander just before it. The problem with long tracks is the timing but I’ve used it repeatedly since GT4 on every course I can think of. Eifel Kart lap times can be reduced a fair bit with timely swipe cornering. Just make sure you’re on the correct side of the car you’re trying to overtake since the AI uses the swipe just as effectively as anyone else. Good luck!

By Waddy2001


The 1st Time Trial Series Competition – Win Great Prizes!

February 17th, 2012
GT5 TimeTrials Competition!

GT5 TimeTrials Competition!

We’re excited to announce the launch of a great new competition with a chance to win some great prizes! Just play the TimeTrials in GT5 and you can win!
For more information or to join up and win, click here: GT5 TimeTrials Competition



Awesome teaser for the new GT5Cheats Competition!

November 5th, 2011

Check out this awesome teaser for the new GT5Cheats Competition!


The GT5Cheats Forum: Faster Than Ever

July 1st, 2011

Our forum here was recently upgraded to a state-of-the-art model with a bigger engine, grippier tires, loads of cool new features and a slick new look.

All usernames and passwords were transferred over for you, so you should be able to login just as before. If you had a custom avatar, that’s still available too.

Drive on in and have a look: The GT5 Cheats Forum